The past few years, I’ve been itching to go back. It may be an age thing; the older I get the more nostalgic I’ve become. But just as I have grown up, I’ve been curious how Manitoba’s second largest city has come of age, too.

I wanted to go beyond the city’s agricultural heritage, and I discovered exactly what I suspected: an under-the-radar arts and culture scene that’s totally worth planning a weekend getaway to explore.

An emerging downtown

Brandon’s historic downtown is like a shy cousin to Winnipeg’s Exchange District. A handsome collection of heritage architecture – centred around Rosser Avenue and 10th Street – is a testament to the Wheat City’s significant role in settling the Canadian Prairies at the turn of the 20th century. In addition to ornate façades, vivid ghost signs – advertisements painted on the sides of buildings that have faded with time – are everywhere you turn.

The vacant McKenzie Seeds tower keeps a watchful eye over the city – a nod to its agriculture roots, but also a contrast to what’s happening at street level, 100 years later. Young entrepreneurs – many of whom have travelled the world and are choosing to return to their hometown – have caught on to downtown’s charm and are setting up shop. Affordability, combined with a steady population (with increasingly cultured tastes) means a palpable energy is returning to the Wheat City’s core.

Be sure to check out Chez Angela when in town, a rustic bakery that causes a buzz in the restored Bass Building on 10th Street. Fifteen minutes before opening, I found myself at the end of a long lineup of eager locals. When the doors opened, we were embraced by the sweet smell rising from the baking racks, a cheerful brick-and-beam interior, and relaxing live cello music.

Locals-in-the-know snatched up loaves of Angela’s signature Wheat City sourdough and baguettes (prepared in traditional French method using flax linen, I’m told). While my husband and I started our morning modestly with a slice of house-made quiche, we soon gorged on an almond croissant, a pecan danish, a cinnamon pull-apart roll and the most robust chocolate chip cookie in Manitoba: made with buckwheat and toasted walnuts. Wife-and-husband team Angie and James Chambers (she is the baker, while he is the host) have a from-scratch, local-first philosophy and the results, judging by the steady stream of visitors, fulfill a craving in the city.

While we might have lingered all morning at Chez Angela, we were also intrigued by their next door neighbour with the alluring pink façade. Charlow is a curated gift shop owned by the enterprising Millennial couple behind local-fav Charleston & Harlow candle company. The store features their line of wellness products plus other funky lifestyle wares from artisans across Canada.

With its Old Hollywood, vintage décor, Charlow is one of those shopping experiences that visitors need to make a specific detour for. I snagged a tin of their quirky-titled candle Wasagamazing, a smoky pine scent in homage to nearby Riding Mountain National Park, and a bottle of their scented room spray.

Brandon’s creative side

We headed down Rosser Avenue to check out the Art Gallery of Southwestern Manitoba, the city’s well-reputed community arts organization that we had heard so much about over the years. Here we spent the rest of the morning at the main gallery’s exhibit viewing a poignant and personal collection of work by Brandon University’s Department of Visual and Aboriginal Art Students.

Colourful murals are popping up on buildings downtown, too. Brandon Tourism offers an online, interactive mural walking tour map so visitors can plan a self-guided tour of the art in any season.

Gotta Eat Here

The dining scene in Manitoba's second largest city has serious momentum, and we could have planned an entire itinerary around which local restaurant to nosh at next. Lady of the Lake offers fresh fare in a funky space while Komfort Kitchen is the go-to for a classic Sunday brunch buffet. Multicultural cuisine is also on every corner - take your pick of Chili Chutney for Indian, Sabor Latino for El Salvadorian, or Tana's for Ethiopian. Black Wheat Brewing Company is the city's first craft beer taproom and worth a pint when exploring downtown.

Retreat to Nature

Our home base for our adventure was located about 15 minutes south of the city. While there is no shortage of hotels in Brandon, we opted to stay off the beaten path to where a Jacuzzi and bottle of bubbly were awaiting us at a tiny cabin in the Brandon Hills. Nature’s Hideaway is a couple’s getaway: masterfully crafted wood cabins, hand-built by the owners, and tucked away on the family acreage that overlooks kilometres of rolling farmland.

The solitude is welcoming. Nature’s Getaway is the perfect location when weekending in Brandon. Guests can opt to veg at the cabin, spying on pond life from the balcony with binoculars; hike and mountain bike the network of trails at the nearby Brandon Hills Wildlife Management Area, or head into the city, as we did, to check out its downtown Renaissance.

Brandon has grown up. And if it has been years since you returned to the Wheat City, now's the time.

Travel Manitoba staff was hosted by Brandon Tourism, who did not review or approve the content of this story.