One of the first things people often say after seeing the aurora borealis for the first time is: “Why doesn’t it look like the photos?”
It's a fair question. Cameras can capture more light than our eyes because they collect it over several seconds. That's why a long exposure often reveals colours and details that aren't immediately visible.
But don't let your camera have all the fun. Give your eyes time to adjust to the darkness. Another lesson in patience. After 20 to 30 minutes away from bright lights, you'll notice more colour, more movement, and far more detail in the aurora borealis.
That's why photographers use red headlamps and dim the lights inside their vehicles while they wait. Preserving your night vision makes a remarkable difference.
Aurora borealis photography isn't just about having the right camera settings. It's about being ready before the show begins.
You Don’t Need Expensive Gear to Start
The best camera is sometimes the one you already have. Modern phones have become surprisingly good at photographing the northern lights. Many newer phones have long exposure modes that can capture impressive images.
The biggest improvement you can make is keeping your phone still.
A tripod is ideal, but even resting your phone on a stable surface can make a big difference. If your watch can trigger your phone’s shutter, that can help prevent movement during the exposure.
Once you move into dedicated cameras, the biggest advantages come from having a wide and fast lens. The equipment isn’t cheap and you’ll need to spend time with it before you’re out photographing the aurora borealis. More on that later.
For aurora borealis photography, I usually recommend:
- A wide lens, around 11mm to 14mm on a camera body
- A fast aperture, ideally f/1.8 or faster
- A sturdy tripod
- A remote shutter or timer
I currently shoot on a Sony A73 body with a Sony FE 14mm/1.8 lens. The wider the lens, the more of the sky you can capture.
My Starter Settings for Aurora Borealis Photography
For someone using a camera, I usually recommend starting simple. Try:
- Aperture: f/1.8 or faster (lower number) if possible
- Shutter speed: 3–5 seconds to start and up to 10-15 seconds for dim aurora borealis
- ISO: Start at a comfortable level for your camera and adjust from there (1600-3200)
- Focus: Manual focus on the stars
- File type: RAW if you plan to edit
The shutter speed is one of the biggest creative choices. A slower shutter speed captures more light but can soften the movement of the aurora borealis. A faster shutter speed helps freeze the shape and movement of the lights. If the aurora borealis is bright and moving quickly, lower your ISO and shorten your exposure (shutter). If the aurora borealis is faint, increase your ISO and use a longer exposure.
One important lesson I learned the hard way: your camera screen can fool you. When you’re outside in the dark, your eyes adjust and your camera screen can look much brighter than your actual image. When you get home, you may discover your photos are darker than expected. Use your histogram to check your exposure. You want your image data pushed slightly to the right so you capture shadow detail without creating too much digital noise. You can also dim your lcd screen so that it’s not as bright.
Focus is One of the Most Important Steps
A lot of people assume they can focus once and forget about it. Don’t.
Every time you move your camera or adjust your setup, you can accidentally change your focus. The easiest way to focus is to use the stars. Most cameras have a ‘focus magnifier’ (different brands have different names for the same thing) feature that allows you to enlarge the live image. Use this to zoom in on a bright star and adjust until it's the smallest, crisp point of light possible. Focus peaking can also help.
And if you’re photographing in extreme cold, keep checking your lens. Ice crystals can build up and make your images soft. Do not breathe on your lens to clear it. That moisture will fog your lens almost instantly. Use a lintless cloth to wipe it clear.
Don't Just Photography the Sky